New Zealand

New Zealand's South Island

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In February 2020, we spent 18 magical days traversing both the North and South Island in New Zealand. We added 1,500 kilometers to our rental car, which we nicknamed “Turbo”, and hiked ~100 km across 12 different day treks. On more than one occasion, we said,“this place is so beautiful, it doesn’t look real.” It was difficult putting down our cameras from time to time, because everywhere had such amazing views. But our cameras could never do this place justice!

We have been craving to visit New Zealand for years. We almost came to New Zealand during our year of travel, but it was always just a little too far, and probably too expensive. We saved this for our honeymoon instead :)

Our Favorites:

Sea Kayaking in Akaroa

Akaroa was our first stop on our New Zealand adventure. The roads are easily the windiest and narrowest we’ve ever navigated, and Annie did an incredible job behind the wheel, though her hands were cramping up from gripping the wheel so tightly.

While we were in Akaroa, we went on an early morning sea kayaking adventure. There’s this beautiful bay in Akaroa and we were lucky enough to spot a very friendly Hector dolphin (the world’s smallest dolphin!) that hung out near our kayaks for nearly an hour. There were a few different types of sharks that we were told live in the bay so we kept our head on a swivel! Especially after we learned that a Great White Sharks was spotted at the mouth of the harbor (though apparently they don’t come in the harbor!).

It was in Akaroa that we received the best New Zealand advice that we could receive: follow the good weather. We know this advice won’t always work, but we did modify our schedule based on the weather. For the remainder of our time on the South Island, we booked our accommodations a day in advance to stay flexible. We felt rain on our skin only once out of our 18 days in New Zealand - we know that .

Daily Jaunts around Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo’s turqouise water was unlike any we’ve seen. Because it is a glacial lake, it has tiny particles or rock floating around, which gives it the lighter color. On day 1 we stretched our legs for the first (of many!) hike of this adventure to the top of Mount John. The cafe at the summit served an incredible vegan felafel sandwich… so good we had to come back the next day. Further down the lake, we walked down to the Peninsula where we couldn’t see any other humans for miles in any direction.

Two Big Hikes near Mt. Cook

Mount Cook is so beautiful that we stopped our car 15 miles away to take a photo. Then we stopped again 10 miles away, and again 5 miles away. The view kept getting better and better. The Hooker Valley track was spectacular, winding through a grand valley for 5 miles before stopping a glacial lake at the base of the mountain. This was a great warm up before climbing the Sealy Tarns track the next day, which was 2.5 hours straight of nothing but stairs… fitness we would definitely need when we would make it to Patagonia in March.

Backtracking to find Good Weather in Rangitata

White water rafting was on our short list of adventures we wanted in New Zealand. We chose the Rangitata River, which had 2 separate legs of Category 5 rapids. Though the rapids were intense, the highlight was jumping out of the raft and floating down the river for about 20 minutes. Annie happened to be the slowest floater, which gave Adam an unforgettable view of Annie’s yellow helmet bobbing up and down with the wild mountains in the background.

Queenstown may be our new favorite city

Given the South Island’s reputation for the outdoors and very few people, we had mixed feelings about leaving nature to head into the city for 2 nights. In this case, we couldn’t have been more wrong. Queenstown might be our new favorite city. Our Airbnb held breathtaking views of the sound and mountains. On our first day, we landed a phenomenal Airbnb experience with a local wine connoisseur, who shepherded us to 4 different wineries to test over 30 types of wine (it was an early night). On the second day, we climbed the Ben Lommond on a sunny day and met 2 new friends from Montana, then went out to dinner together in downtown Queenstown. We honestly considered spending the rest of our time in Queestown… it was very tough to leave.

A Day Trip to Milford Sound

We originally planned to drive out to Milford Sound, but due to an unseasonably wet summer, the road caved in and was closed. So, we booked a short 35-minute flight out to Milford Sound and hoped we could land some nice weather. It couldn’t have been more perfect. We had sunny skies (but lots of turbulence so Adam was gripping his seat the entire flight), and met a great couple on their honeymoon. We drank wine as we spun around the Sound for a few hours, before heading back to our new favorite place… Queenstown!

A hot, long hike in Wanaka

After painfully peeling ourselves away from Queenstown, we landed in another stunning little town called Wanaka. With our one full day, we climbed 22 km to Roy’s Peak despite being advised it would be “too busy”. After living in Manhattan for 7 years, I think we have a different definition of “busy”. We passed another human every 10-15 minutes, which is busy for New Zealand, but definitely worth the breathtaking 360 views from the top. The whole hike took about 6 hours and we drank almost 3 liters of water, so we were both shocked to see a couple leave for the summit at 4pm without any water (We wonder if they made it).

We finally stayed in a Yurt in Hokitika

During our year of travel, we almost stayed in a yurt multiple times but it never happened. Annie found a perfect Airbnb right on the coast in Hokitika to make our dream come true! Even better, it started pouring that night which made the tent extra cozy.

New Zealand's North Island

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After losing ourselves in the South Island for 13 days, that left us only 4 for the North. Which only means one thing… we’ll need to come back!

Our favorite Airbnb in our very own Shire!

We’ve stayed in over 50 Airbnb’s on 4 different continents - but we think this was our favorite. The Lake Taupo surroundings were straight out of the Shire in Lord of the Rings, with a cabin atop a small hill with sliding doors and a porch facing directly west. Our first night, we had plans to go out to a local dinner spot, but couldn’t peel ourselves away… so we had peanut butter and jelly with a bottle of wine and danced on the porch as the sun set. We would absolutely love to come back here.

Conquering the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

On our most ambitious hike yet, we set the alarm for 4:30AM to make the 1.5 hour drive to the base of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of New Zealand’s most iconic hikes. The whole trip took us about 7 hours as we crossed over and around a series of semi-active volcanoes. Adam was a little nervous at first, but there was nothing to be worried about. The path looked like we were walking on the moon and we befriended 2 American girls in catsuits. They must have been roasting because it was a perfectly sunny day close to 80 degrees. We were exhausted by the end, and Annie had little red dots all over her feet. After some ferocious googling on the drive home, we concluded it was heat rash and not a little bug that was biting her feet all day.

Strolling through active hot springs

On our way back from the spa, we saw signs to walk through active hot springs. We turned left and snuck through the door just 15 minutes before close. For an hour, we strolled through 15+ active hot springs while taking in some gnarly smells and snapping a few pics before heading back to our little Shire… and more wine.

Hitting the spa in Rotorua

We were warned of the strong odor in Rotorua, and we definitely weren’t disappointed. The whole down smells like rotten eggs, so we decided to hop into one of the oldest spas and test out the different temperatures of pools, then head back to our hilltop heaven back in the Shire in Taupo.

We’re not finished with the North!

If we learned anything in New Zealand, it’s that we know we need to come back. The country is filled with incredibly friendly and eco-conscious people. Three days in the North Island definitely wasn’t enough… so we’ll be back!